2017 Moreau-Naudet Petit Chablis
Moreau’s Petit Chablis comes from a single 2.5-hectare site with a southwest orientation and, importantly, on Kimmeridgian soils (as opposed to the higher Portlandian soils on which much Petit is grown). This vineyard is in Courgis, on the Chablis–Saint-Bris road, which was, once again, badly hit by frost in 2017. Half of the plot is home to 25- to 30-year-old vines, while the other half is somewhat older at 45-50 years old. Moreau allows this cuvée to go through spontaneous fermentation and vinifies the wine in large vats. The 2017 is looking the business: all sherbet-y and floral with pulpy, succulent texture and first-rate, chalky length. Genuinely delicious, this is a Petit Chablis of serious class and precision and simply a bargain white Burgundy.