2017 Mark Haisma Morey St Denis, 'Les Chaffots' 1er cru 1500ml

Just south of Monts Luisants, high up above the village on the long strip above Clos de la Roche. Thinner soils than a village wine. Haisma has been making this since 2012. 75% whole bunch. This vineyard taught him about Burgundy – that the wine is the vineyard. He is just a steward.

95 Points & 5 Star Rating, Huon Hooke – “Medium to deep red/purple colour, with a smoked charcuterie aroma, building a lovely bouquet of dried cherry and faded flowers as it aired. The palate is elegant and medium-weight, the finish tapering off slightly and the tannins supple but pleasantly assertive. The end-palate is taut and composed. It would benefit from another year or two.” Drink 2019-2034

Jancis Robinson 17.5 - “This has wonderful archetypal Morey perfume: peppery and lightly floral (more peony than roses) and crushed rocks. Fragrant and refined. Not showy. Then that peppery quality on the palate and the gentle scent and finest of tannins. It’s both sober and scented. A beauty”. (JH)

Sarah Marsh 18.5 – “This is sweet and delicate. It’s slightly smokey and stemy in a good way. The finish is fine and persistent. It has a purity. Fine boned structure. Very mineral...savoury salty finish.”

Tim Atkin 94 – “Mark Haisma has been making this premier cru since 2012, but this is the best release yet in my view. Fresh and well-defined, it comes from a very well-placed premier cru that's just beside Clos St-Denis. Sappy and bright, it has very well integrated whole-bunch characters and 30% new wood. Impressive stuff from this Aussie micro-négociant.”

Neal Martin 90-92 – “The medium-bodied palate offers brown spices, bay leaf and black tea infusing the red fruit. This is very expressive of its terroir and displays a lovely bitter cherry note on the finish. Excellent.”

Bill Nanson – “Just a touch more colour, not much. Completely different fruit profile, darker, tighter clusters of fruit. Fresh, lithe, a wine of direction and slowly melting flavour – widening over the palate. Juicy finishing. Here with a slightly fumé tannin. Lovely wine – Plenty of whole cluster here, but hardly visible today…”