2017 Benjamin Leroux Gevrey Chambertin
Leroux’s 2017 hails from the 50-year-old vines of Les Seuvrées (bordering Morey and contributing 50% of the blend), the northern limestone-rich La Justice, and old vines in Le Fourneau─in the centre of the appellation. To add to these perennial sources, the 2017 takes in a little old-vines Jeunes Rois, in Brochon near the Fixin border. So it is really a universal Gevrey. Each parcel is vinified separately before blending. There was minimal whole bunch used, and, unlike last year when the wine was aged two-thirds in tank and the remainder in 35-hl foudre, this year all Leroux’s Gevrey villages was raised in 228-litre barrels to add a little more flesh. Leroux’s aim is to channel the more elegant, floral side of Gevrey and this is on show here big time, with a terrifically perfumed, nuanced and textured wine with notes of peony and rose petal, grenadine and blackcurrant and plenty of that classic Gevrey ‘iron filings’ minerality. The finish is mouthwatering, intense yet precise, with super-fine tannins.
“Here the nose is very Gevrey in character with its earthy forest floor and humus nuances on the red and dark pinot fruit aromas. The vibrant, rich and delicious flavors possess a lovely sense of vibrancy though the firm and ever-so-slightly bitter finish comes up a bit short. This may very well harmonize as the tannins do seem ripe.” 87-89 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound issue 75
“The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Village, mainly from Les Seuvrées and La Justice, plus a couple of other minor contributors, has a pretty, harmonious black cherry and cassis bouquet with light rose petal aromas. The palate is medium-bodied, offering light tannin, brisk dark berry fruit and touches of cola, but lacks a little substance on the finish. Early-drinking, but pleasurable.” 86-88 points, Neal Martin, Vinous January 2019