2017 Moreau-Naudet Chablis
Moreau’s villages wine is drawn from 20- to 30-year-old vineyards in Préhy and Courgis in the south of Chablis. This is also raised entirely in tank—it’s not until the Vieilles Vignes level and above that Moreau starts utilising (older) barrels. It spent 20 months on lees, considerably longer than the vast majority of Chablis at this level. The fruit is also subject to a very gentle four-hour press, and the juice is fermented with natural yeasts (again, still a rarity in Chablis). These traditional methods along with the hand-harvesting, the quality of the terroir, the low yields (circa 35 hl/ha) and the full ripeness levels at which the fruit was harvested, helps to explain the fabulous texture, depth and quality that is on offer here for the level. As always, a noticeable step up. There’s more lifted aromatics of ripe nectarine and yellow flowers, leading to a mouthwatering yet super seductive palate with pristine white peach, kernel fruit and salty freshness. There is genuine depth countered by the vibrancy, snap, detail and salinity of serious Chablis terroir.